For my second recommendation, I offer the Canadian company Fortnight.
Historically, I’ve had a hell of a time finding decent, well-fitting bras in my size. I wear a 30 in the band, which isn’t so far from the regular range that I can’t find anything – many people are much worse off, in this respect – but what I can find are mostly push-up bras, all padded and buttressed, and NASA-engineered for optimal lift. As much as I appreciate the impressive effect these have on other people, they are really not my thing.
I have another reason for being particular about what I wear on my chest. As a confused, gender-dysphoric teenager, I couldn’t join my friends in their love of buying underwear. They were happy to make use of a new, grown-up lady shape (though no doubt with plenty of their own confusions), but I wasn’t, and all I could do was try to hide my own discomfort, and hope that nobody gave me a hard time. My usual tactic was to just grab the first bra off the rack: anything that almost, more-or-less fit. Then I would wear it until it was falling off of me in tatters (and then maybe a little longer than that) before I replaced it. As if I could eradicate that part of myself with sheer neglect.
I won’t wade too deep into this subject (though maybe I should someday write a post along the lines of “why I draw myself as an androgynous goblin”). But it’s worth saying that a lot of the hard work of self-acceptance involves maintaining a truce with your discomfort, and agreeing to take good care of the features you would rather willfully ignore, even if you can’t take the extra step of liking them. Dressing your body well, on your own terms, is a powerful, powerful act, even if nobody else can see what you’re wearing.
So, pretending I didn’t wander away from the original topic: for anyone interested, Fortnight’s bras have no moulded cups and no wires, and still they’re surprisingly sturdy when worn. I can’t speak for how well they’d work for people who need more support, but I’ve had a couple of them in heavy rotation for well over a year now, and they still look good, and haven’t warped or stretched at all. I’ll add, for general reference, they seem to fit a little small in the cup size.